Sissy Bar | Modifications

It’s finally time to get a sissy bar!

To be 100% honest, I’m getting tired of carrying around my backpack everywhere I go, especially now that the weather is warming up and I’m taking longer 300+ mile day trips. I also don’t like relying on other people to carry my stuff for me (convenient since I just broke up with my boyfriend who had saddle bags on his Street Glide),  so I decided to start looking for a sissy bar.

Since I can’t afford a custom sissy bar, à la Ria the Welder on IG, I decided to take my search online.

The first sissy bar that drew my interest was the Burley Brand “Tall” Sissy Bar for sportsters:

Available at Get Lowered for $229.45

I have no use for the pad on the sissy bar, but it looks like a decent height to strap a backpack and it’s simple.

But while browsing the rest of the Get Lowered site, I saw another brand with a nearly identical size sissy bar for about $100 cheaper.

Ladies and gentlemen, the Gasbox Bolt-on Sissy bar for sportsters:

From Get Lowered for $159.95

Now I’m no expert on fabricating sissy bars, but the only difference I see between the two are the mounting side plates (that are more minimal in the Burley Brand bar) and the pad. Am I going to pay an extra $100 for that? Hell no. So I went with the Gasbox bar.

IMG_1635

Installation was a bit of a pain in the ass since I don’t have a lift, but it was an easy install otherwise (no major tools or bursts of strength needed).

I followed the instructions on the Low Brow Customs page, where they installed the same sissy bar.

Tools needed:

  • Flat head screw driver
  • 3/8 drive ratchet
  • T40 Torx bit
  • 5/16 allen key
  • 1/2 inch wrench

Steps:

  • The orange casing for your turn signals get in the way of removing the screws, so use a flat head screw drive to pop those off.
  • Use a 3/8 drive ratchet and a T40 Torx bit to remove the rear screw (don’t lose the bracket at the back of the screw!).
  • Do the same thing with the front screw, just use a 1/2 inch wrench to remove the nut on the back.
    • this is the pain in the ass part if you don’t have a lift because the amount of space you have is slim. Luckily my little fingers were able to get the job done.
  • Repeat on the other side.
  • Line up the sissy bar to the holes on the strut covers
  • Use the provided longer screws to install
    • 2 are slightly longer, so use those on the front
    • use a 5/16 allen key to install the screws
    • don’t forget the bracket and nuts
  • Pop the orange casing on your turn signals back on
  • Done!

Here’s the finished product:

IMG_1645

IMG_1643

I’ll do a full review on the sissy bar after I strap on a few different size bags on it, test out different kind of straps, and take it on long trips (which should be in June and July when I go motocamping!).

Screen Shot 2017-05-27 at 9.45.20 PM

-Kim

 

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3 Comments Add yours

  1. rrairborne says:

    Sweet set up! I swear I’m not copying you, this week I got a new set of handlebars and my brother and I welded together a sissy bar. Love your write ups and its got me thinking about creating my own blog. Keep on keeping on, seriously keep doing what you’re doing.

    One thing I might recommend is something to protect your rear fender while the bag rests on it…I just started using my sissybar for extra storage and already got something caught between the bag and fender and got some scratches.

    You’re awesome girl, your eastcoast compadre – Ricky

    Liked by 1 person

    1. drvnkymonk says:

      That’s one of my concerns since I got the sissy bar! I have a few soft bags/packs that I’ve been using, but I already know it’s gonna get scratched. Any suggestions?

      Like

  2. rrairborne says:

    I made a faux leather bib…its doing the job I might invest in something better later. There’s a $30 mustang rear fender cover bib that I’m looking at, Harley has one but its double the price.

    If you do go for the bib cover, the philips screw on your fender is damn near impossible to remove without stripping. The factory used red loctite on it, there’s no nut on the underside. Loctite breaks down under heat so I took a torch to a screwdriver until it was red hot, seated it in the screw for awhile and was able to back it out that way. Sketchy but it worked.

    Outside of that I heard you can use 5-7 coats of plasti-dip to make a clear bra on the area. Not sure how it’ll look though.

    Liked by 1 person

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